Where to Stay: If you intend to hike daily, Anse Chastanet near the town of Soufriere is the most conveniently located hotel for the price. The 400-acre resort has been a leader in organizing walking and hiking tours for its guests with local, very knowledgeable guides. (From the beach, its main restaurant has 125 steps to the top, a nice vigorous climb before breakfast.) For information, call 800/328-5285. The snorkeling on the reef out front is superb. Web site: www.ansechastanet.com.

On the east coast, close to the Des Cartiers rain forest walk and the Fregate Islands Nature Reserve is the 12-bedrrom Fox Grove Inn at Mon Repose. The Swiss/St. Lucian owners run a terrific restaurant here; try the garlic soup! Room rates are $55 for a single including breakfast, or $72 with dinner. A double is $65 including breakfast, $99 with dinner added. Horseback riding is available on the beaches or hills. Call 758/455-3271 or fax 758/455-3800. Web site: www.foxgroveinn.com .

St. Lucia has many good all-inclusives. The famous couples-only Sandals chain ( www.sandals.com ) has two operations here. Less well known but equally good is Le Sport, which emphasizes outdoor activities, including early morning walks. Web site: www.lesport.com.lc. Despite its Club Med sounding name, Le Sport has no real French affiliation.

For more options, search St. Lucia hotels now.

Camping: The National Trust operates the Environmental Education Centre along a stretch of beach (Anse Liberte) in the fishing village of Canaries, 8 miles north of Soufriere and 25 miles south of Castries. Camping gear is available for rent. There are five miles of hiking trails. Staff gives tours explaining the emancipation history. Call 758/452-5005 for information.

Safety & Health Warnings: Unfortunately, the rivers aren't the cleanest. It's advised you not swim in them, much less drink from them. St. Lucia is one of the few islands with Bilharzia (also called schistosomiasis) a parasite that generally occurs in slow-moving, snail-infested water. It can enter the body by being consumed or through open wounds.

A guide and/or group is recommended when touring for the remote areas. Crime being what it is these days--prevalent--a few tourists have been robbed while walking on their own.   

Snakes & Other Venomous Creatures: The fer-de-lance inhabits coastal areas. Be careful around piles of coconut shells in the lowlands.

For More Information: Contact the St. Lucia Tourist Board, 820 2nd Ave., 9th Floor, New York, New York 10017; 212/867-2950; fax 212/370-7867. In Canada, 151 Bloor Street West, Suite 425, Toronto, Ontario M5S 1S4; 416/ 961-5606; fax 416/961-4317. In the UK, 10 Kensington Court , London W8 5DL; 071/937-1969; fax 071/937-3611.

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